Kerlingarfjöll

Kerlingarfjöll is a volcanic massif nestled in the heart of Iceland's Highlands, reachable via the F35 (Kjölur) track. These rhyolitic mountains, streaked with yellows, oranges, and reds, harbor an active geothermal field dotted with fumaroles and hot springs. Peaks exceed 1,400 meters in elevation. Snow blankets much of the site throughout the year, making it accessible only in summer—typically June through September.

Essential Information at a Glance

• Access: F35 (Kjölur) track; high-clearance 4×4 required — F-category tracks are legally off-limits to standard vehicles.
• Season: Summer access only, typically June to September depending on snow conditions.
• Recommended duration: Half day to full day to explore the geothermal field and trails.
• On-site accommodation: Kerlingarfjöll Mountain Resort offers mountain cabins and camping facilities.
• What to wear: Waterproof hiking boots essential; warm layers recommended even in summer.

What You'll See

The landscape is dominated by rhyolites in vivid hues, striking against Iceland's typical black lava. The Hveradalir geothermal zone concentrates fumaroles, bubbling mud pools, and sulfur deposits. Streams of hot water course through valleys. A carpet of moss vegetation contrasts with the colored rocks, creating striking visual compositions.

History and Context

The name "Kerlingarfjöll" literally translates to "mountains of the old woman" in Icelandic, a reference to a figure in local folklore. The massif long remained isolated, accessible only by horse or on foot. The Kjölur track, a historic Highland route, was traveled by Icelandic farmers to traverse the interior before modern roads were built.

Highlights of Your Visit

Hveradalir — the geothermal valley

This is the site's beating heart. Fumaroles rise continuously between brilliantly colored rhyolitic rocks. Marked trails allow safe navigation around active zones. Stay on designated paths: ground near hot springs can be unstable.

Ridgelines and Panoramas

Several trails ascend toward ridges offering views of surrounding glaciers, including Hofsjökull. On clear days, the panorama sweeps across much of the Highlands. Hiking here is demanding due to altitude and volcanic terrain.

Natural Hot Springs

Certain geothermal streams allow bathing under natural conditions. Water temperatures vary by location; check with the mountain resort staff about safe bathing spots.

Photography Tips

Raking morning and evening light (and the midnight sun in July) accentuates the contrast in colored rocks. Frame fumaroles against yellow rhyolite backdrops. A polarizing filter cuts glare on pools. Avoid approaching active zones too closely for safety—a telephoto lens is valuable.

Location and Access

Kerlingarfjöll lies in the Highlands, roughly 55 km east along the F35 (Kjölur) track from the main junction. From Reykjavik, allow several hours of driving. A 4×4 is mandatory. The F347 track leads directly to the resort from the F35. No public transportation serves the site. Accessibility for those with mobility restrictions is severely limited due to volcanic terrain and unpaved tracks.

In the Vicinity

• Geysir — Iceland's most famous geothermal field, accessible from Route 35 south of the Highlands.
• Gullfoss — a dramatic two-tiered waterfall near the southern exit of the Kjölur track.
• Hofsjökull — a central glacier visible from Kerlingarfjöll's ridges; one of Iceland's largest.
• Hveravellir — a geothermal oasis on the Kjölur track, featuring hot springs and a natural pool.