Muang Ngoi Neua village lies in Luang Prabang Province, roughly sixty kilometers as the crow flies northeast of its capital: Luang Prabang. It is a true paradise on earth accessible solely by boat from the waterways. Travelers seeking authenticity and tranquility will find their haven in this village of 700 inhabitants lost in the remote north of Laos, nestled between mountains and jungle. It sits on the banks of the Nam Ou River, which on sunny days vividly mirrors the lush landscape of the region.

History

The town in its current form dates back to the 15th century. At that time it had been designated as the capital of a series of Tai settlements established in the surrounding areas along the Nam Ou River since the 12th century. This small area was then a semi-independent principality of the Tai people. This people lived at the time across much of present-day Thailand, in several zones of Laos, in the far north of Cambodia, within a few scattered areas of Myanmar and in Yunnan, China. These principalities were widespread throughout Southeast Asia and named Mueang in Thai, and Muang in Lao, giving the town its name Muang Ngoi Neua.

During the Laotian Civil War, men of the Pathet Lao took shelter in caves just beside the village for fear of bombardments from the Royal Laotian Air Force. For more than two years the town remained uninhabitable under this threat, forcing the hundreds of inhabitants of Muang Ngoi Neua to also take refuge in neighboring caves.

The town therefore derives its name, first, from the principalities that spread across Southeast Asia during the second millennium of our era: Muang. The Ngoi is a small stream that flows through the village and empties into the Nam Ou River. Finally, the term Neua, meaning north, was added after the civil war to reflect the movement of populations during that terrible era.

What to do in Muang Ngoi Neua?

Although you find yourself in the middle of a haven of peace, don't worry—there will be things to do! Here are some ideas to help you during your arrival in Muang Ngoi Neua.

The Nam Ou River beaches

Upon your arrival by water, you will see along the banks of the Nam Ou River, which borders Muang Ngoi Neua village, beaches of unparalleled tranquility. You can take advantage of a late arrival if that's the case to spend some time in the sand or on a sunbed sipping your cocktail before retiring to prepare for the big day ahead!

Two observation points from above

The particularity of Muang Ngoi Neua is that it is surrounded by steep, verdant mountains covered in lush vegetation. Two of them can be climbed to reach a splendid observation point at the summit. The trail leading to Phanoy, the first point, is found after the village dock. Take it and turn left, and you'll see a fence and gate leading to the trail. The climb is not very long, around 20-30 minutes of walking. Bamboo rails have been installed there for your safety. Once at the top, you'll have a superb view of the village, the surrounding mountains and the Nam Ou River.

The second hike leads to Phaboom, the second observation point. To reach it, you must walk to the southernmost point of the village road and then follow the path to reach a farm, where you will see further on the gate and fence marking the start of the hike. This one is considerably more taxing than the previous, so don't go alone unless you have experience with this type of trek. The climb takes two hours and is particularly steep and abrupt. Wear shoes suited for hiking and don't hesitate to make full use of the bamboo, trees, and stones to help you climb, as the ground can be slippery. The arrival is nonetheless a breath of fresh air and a significant reward. The view of the mountains and Nam Ou River winding between them and fading into the mist is all the more beautiful than the former.

Tham Kang and Tham Pha Kaew caves

The famous caves that served as dwellings during the civil war and the Vietnam War. They are located southeast of the village, just a few minutes' walk away. Take time to explore the interior—the cool air of the caverns is sometimes refreshing during Southeast Asia's very dry seasons.

Climate

The best time to enjoy the Nam Ou River and Muang Ngoi Neua village falls between December and February. At this time the weather is at its driest and temperatures hover around 30 degrees Celsius. The sun is omnipresent, allowing you to enjoy wonderful moments. Try to avoid the months of July, August and September, which are subject to heavy rainfall and particularly high humidity levels.

As mentioned earlier, only a boat can take you to Muang Ngoi Neua village. First take a bus from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw. It will roughly follow the Nam Ou River, a tributary of the Mekong. The 140 kilometers are generally covered in 3 hours of travel. From here you can take the boat to navigate the waters northward. One hour of sailing will be enough to arrive safely.